The Art of Couture

 

So many Brides ask me this question when I first meet them, "What is couture?".  Of course, the word couture is used by many bridal designers and bridal salons to describe their gowns.  But, what does it truly mean?  And, what really makes a couture gown?

Well, the word comes from the French "haute couture", which means "high sewing" or "high fashion".  It is a word that is actually protected in France to describe only those designers and Fashion Houses that meet a certain criteria on the fabrication of their clothing.  These pieces are typically made to order for each client, made with high quality fabrics, and sewn and finished by only the most experienced seamstresses with a great amount of time spent on the details.  To be even more specific, a true haute couture designer must even have a workshop in Paris that employs at least 20 full time people among a few other rules.

Now, at this time, that I am afraid I am not able to do.  Although, working in Paris sounds fantastic! Lol!!

But, unlike many other salons and designers, that just call themselves couture for marketing purposes, I strive to reach much of the "couture" criteria with each and every one of my brides.

• It is just as important to me as it is to my brides that her gown fits beautifully, so however many fittings as are needed to achieve this must be met.
• I am also proud to be able to say that I make each and every gown locally, at the Salon in Pasadena, yes, something actually "Made In America"!
• Attention to the details is paramount and nothing should be overlooked.  As many of my brides know, I am a bit compulsive and if I personally feel that the gown is "not quite there", I will be up all night, all week, whatever is necessary, to get it right and even deliver the gown myself to my bride.

I believe that trying to keep couture "alive" is what makes my brides experience and her gown so special and dear.  After all, this is her wedding day, one of the best and most important days of her life....and that is something to be valued and cherished.

 

 

 

 

The Process of Design: Part 3 (Raquel)

Now that my bride Raquel's wedding has been celebrated, I can post the images from our last and final fitting without worrying about her new hubby seeing them.  If you recall, in Part 2, we had a full version of Raquel's gown fabricated in muslin to insure the correct fit and make any design changes prior to cutting into the actual finish fabric of her gown.  After all of the corrections and alterations to the gown and tweaks to the design were completed, I took apart the muslin and proceeded to use this as my new pattern to trace onto the final silk fabric.  Getting the muslin version of her dress (or of any of my brides) correct is crucial to allowing our final fitting to go smoothly with minimal adjustments.

I put her gown back together, leaving any small details to be adjusted the days Raquel came in for her final appointment.  This time Raquel set aside a full week in L.A. to be sure we had enough time to get everything right before she flew back East with her gown.  

After a little bit of pinning, adjusting, tacking and sewing, Raquel's gown was complete!  

As she is on her honeymoon now, I am waiting for her return and looking forward to the photos.  Oh, I also created three cute dresses for the little flower girls, their photos are coming as well...

Spring 2013 Collection Inspiration

 

As I finalize my Fall 2012 Collection, photo shoot with the amazing Abi Q coming soon, I am already inspired and in the process of designing my Spring 2013 Collection.  I have always loved vintage, glamorous Hollywood...the days of Ingrid Bergman and Rita Hayworth, the roll out of the red carpet at the Academy Awards.  The days when Hollywood starlets were looked at as iconic, beautiful, sexy and alluring.  You had Bette Davis, Gene Tierney, Lauren Bacall....all amazing and gorgeous.  The clothes that they wore were impeccable and grand.  So, my next Collection gathers inspiration from these fabulous women and their incredible clothing.  I am looking to recreate this feel with a sexier more modern twist.  Think...grand, glamorous, chic, sexy.  Perfect for any wedding, or maybe even a red carpet event!

The Process of Design: Part 2 (Raquel)

In Part 2 of the Design Process, we move onto the fabrication of the muslin pattern and the fitting of this onto Raquel.
The first step is to take the Design, which was previously approved by Raquel, and create patterns that will be used to fabricate the actual gown. All of the patterns not only correspond to the gown, but more specifically to Raquels's measurements. In total, I usually take up to fifteen different measurements.
Next, I transfer the patterns onto a light weight cotton fabric called muslin. Here is where the physical dress takes shape. This preliminary dress is cut and sewn just as the final gown will be. It is at this stage that the first of the alterations will occur. Of course, because Raquel actually flies in from back East, we schedule two days of fittings to best utilize her time and schedule. This allows us to really pin point the fit of the gown and to establish what I will need to fabricate the final gown.

So now that the gown is on my Bride, I make any alterations to the Design to flatter a particular area over another, or maybe collectively we decide to eliminate a part of the gown altogether. In any case, this is the stage where all of the necessary changes can occur.
Now that we have made all of the adjustments to the muslin, I then take it apart and transfer this new information onto the final patterns. Once the patterns have been adjusted, we are ready for the next step...the creation of the actual gown from the inside out with what will be the final fabric.
Stay tuned for that when Raquel returns...

Fall 2012 Fabric Sneak Peek

As I come to the completion of my Fall 2012 Collection, I wanted to share a few of the fabrics which have inspired my design process and have added to the Moroccan flair of the gowns.  This first image is of a lace that was shown to me by one of my fabric vendors, that instantly captivated me and transported me to Morocco.

After that, I searched out other fabrics that would continue the inspiration and fit well with the design essence that I was already working with.  As you can see, there are rich golden-carmel silk dupionis, glimmering sand colored tule, and unusual architectural inspired laces.  All of these not only add to the exotic feel of this Collection,. but also inspire the direction that each gown takes.  Stay tuned for the Collection Release....

Fall 2012 Inspiration

The inspiration for my Fall 2012 Collection started with a beautiful piece of lace that was shown to me by one of my fabric vendors.  The unique shape reminded me of Persian Designs that encompass the architecture and culture of Morocco.  I love the rich vibrant colors that are part of the Moroccan landscape, the reds and oranges of the sun, the blues and greens of the sea, and the gold and silver that reminds me of sand. I remember once reading that there is something to "the Moroccan mystique" which is truly inspirational...and that is something that I find absolutely true.  So, without revealing too much, let your imagination run wild and look for the release of the new Collection soon!

Regards,

Alina

The Process of Design: Part 1 (Raquel)

I was contacted via email by my bride Raquel who lives all the way over on the East Coast in Connecticut. She was searching for her perfect gown, which had to be as unique as her custom engagement ring that her fiance had specially designed for her.  Having little luck on her search, Raquel finally came across my website. She told me that when she landed on my site, she thought to herself, I want all of these dresses... And so, the process of designing Raquel's wedding gown began...
First, after confirming her appointment and blocking out the days on my calendar, Raquel booked her flight.  In order to make the most of her trip between Connecticut and Cali, we decided to meet on consecutive days.  On the first day, we needed  to work out her preferences, her vision for her gown, as I created a few sketches that incorporated what Raquel was looking for.  After many, many laughs and a great first day, I had a lot of information to go through to create the final sketch of her gown.

Day two, we met to finalize the dress design. This included the final sketch, which would now be used to create the pattern for her muslin dress. The muslin dress is a cotton mock up of what the final gown will be and is basically, the sketch come to life. It is what I use to fabricate my final patterns and to create the preliminary fit of the gown...this will come together during our next appointment. Next, since the design is now confirmed, Raquel picks out the fabric swatch and color from a selection that I have prepared which will be applied to the final gown. Finally, I take all of Raquel's measurements that I will need to start the fabrication process.
Now, next time Raquel and I meet, I will have her muslin dress ready for the first fitting...

Spring 2012 Inspiration Board

As part of my Design Process, I look at many different fabrics, from intricate laces to silky chiffon. I look at all of the beautiful textures and wonderful colors of each fabric, including ways to create my own fabrics and colors. I look at how the fabrics will fold and drape, how they will conform to a Bride's figure, how they will feel against her skin.
But, before I ever even get to this point, I always look for inspiration. It may be the detailed folds and beautiful symmetry of a flower as I did for my Fall 2010 Collection, or the incredible organic layers and structure of a Frank Gehry building for the design of the gown, as was the case for my Fall 2011 Collection. It can be the rich blue colors of a Caribbean Sea, the soft whiteness of a snowy day, or the sexy silhouette of an Italian sports car .  There is no limit to what inspires me each season and where that inspiration may come from...
My new inspiration for my Spring 2012 Collection is Miami. The beautiful turquoise hues of the ocean, the stunning colors of the sky as the sun rises over the water want to seep into my fabrics. The energy of Miami and the people, the great sense of style that fits the outdoor living, the rich unique colors, textures, and patterns that are so specific to Miami can be found no where else. The wonderful lines of the Art Deco hotels that line Ocean Drive, inspire the curves of my gowns.  The beach living, with crocheted swimsuits and sexy sheer wraps want to flow into these dresses.
These images, ideas, inspirations are so important to my Design Process, that they help to guide my vision, my passion, my creativity for each one of my Collections.  Now, stay tuned for the release...

The Process of Design: Final

It's been a while since Part 3 of the Design Process, but here is my Bride Tina, whose gown I have featured in documenting for my Design Process, in her final gorgeous gown. As you can see, the amount of fabric and detail that was put into the gown was worn beautifully and fit her like a glove.
In the final gown, all of the foundation, structure and support that I showed in the last blog, is completely hidden beneath the soft, silk pleated and ruffled overlay. The train was especially long as Tina requested a cathedral length which also included her veil. Many, many yards of fabric went into this creation, and each bit was methodically sewn and stitched to achieve the wonderful flow and feel of airiness that Tina had wanted.
Congratulations Tina & Nate!

Fall 2011 Collection Inspiration

I have always been inspired by unique design when I look forward to creating my gowns. I look at shapes, forms, textures, and colors from many different places. One of my inspirations has always been architecture, and so with my newest Collection, Frank Gehry's incredible use of line, symmetry, folds, and hard edges has come to life in my fabrics. I will be releasing the Collection soon, but thought you might enjoy seeing some images that have inspired me on the new gowns. They are still very feminine and sexy, but have some interesting architectural features implemented. Subtle textures and pops of color add softness to the new line that will fit and flatter any Bride.
Enjoy...

Baby Doll

I thought I would share a little mini gown that was inspired by one of my Brides. I had previously designed a dress for a Brides niece, who was just 10 months old. The dress was a direct reflection of the Bride, with the same color scheme as the Bridal party and the same flow as the Brides. So, I thought it would be fun to design a dress for a baby girl that was also a mini-couture piece. This one is also made from silk and has a cute little tie to the back,which is also the same detail that my Bride had. Perfect for a destination wedding!

The Couture School

Ever wonder how to create the perfect gown? Well, now you can learn in a hands on intimate setting. During an eight week course, I will work one-on-one with only four students in my Design Studio, teaching them the techniques, principles, and skills that I use to design and create the completely couture gown wedding gowns and dresses that my Clients wear.
Here are some of the principles that will be taught during the workshop:

• Introduction and inspiration for Couture Design
  

• How to create technical drawings from the Design
  

• Discussion of Couture embellishments
  

• Draping the form
  

• Sewing construction techniques for different fabrications
  

• Pattern making
  

• Muslin construction and fit
  

• Gown fabrication and Couture details 
  

Classes will be held every Tuesday and Thursday from 7 - 9pm.
The first session will be September 14th - November 4th.
Tuition is $1600.

Contact me for more information.

The Process of Design: Part 3

In Part 2, we created a complete muslin gown catering to Tina's measurements and showing the elements of the actual design.
In this next step, I create the final gown from the inside out. First, the muslin gown is taken apart and patterns are adjusted to the last fitting Tina and I had. These patterns are now transferred onto the actual silk fabric that will make up the final gown. Once cut, these patterned pieces are put together in a state where we can re-fit Tina again to confirm that nothing has changed, or if there are some more adjustments, they can now be done at this stage.



It is also at this stage that I build the actual under garments into the gown. For Tina, we are creating a corset type foundation, which also gives support and structure to the gown. This silk "base" gown will now act as the foundation for the rest of her pleated and ruffled overlay.
The next stage is the fabrication and application of all of the fine details of her gown. But, for those photos, you will have to wait until after the wedding! We don't' want to ruin the surprise for her fiance and the rest of the Party.

The Process of Design: Part 2

Now for the fittings...In Part 1, I designed a gown for my Bride Tina Marie. Now we will move onto the next phase.
The first step is to take the approved Design and create patterns that will be used to fabricate the gown. All of the patterns not only correspond to the gown, but more specifically to Tina's measurements. In total, I usually take up to fifteen different measurements.
Next, I transfer the patterns onto a light weight cotton fabric called muslin. Here is where the physical dress takes shape. This preliminary dress is cut and sewn just as the final gown will be. It is at this stage that the first of the alterations will occur.





So now that the gown is on my Bride, I can truly see how it will fit her. I may also make alterations to the Design to flatter a particular area over another, or maybe collectively we decide to eliminate a part of the gown altogether. In any case, this is the stage where all of the necessary changes can occur.
Now that we have made all of the adjustments to the muslin, I then take it apart and transfer this new information onto the patterns. Once the patterns have been adjusted, we are ready for the next step...the creation of the actual gown from the inside out.